First, the food. When I deploy on a Navy ship, I’ve come to expect a certain standard of quality and variety. Meals on a typical USS ship change on a daily basis and different menus are rotated in and out on a weekly or so basis. (it’s actually a 21-day rotation). Fresh fruit is often available, but you can consider yourself lucky if it’s unbruised and even luckier if it’s ripe. Bottles of Texas Pete hot sauce is always available if you need to spice up your food. I’ve become accustomed to a certain standard of eating!
A typical dinner: roast leg of lamb with mango chutney, steamed broccoli, roasted squash.
These choices always available for breakfast: eggs to order, pancakes, fresh biscuits, grits, oatmeal, assorted pastries, perfectly crispy bacon, sausage, fresh cut fruit and assorted pastries.
Ok, enough antics. The food on the Swift is great; not merely good. I’m temped to use the word “awesome,” but I know my excitement tends to lead me to hyperbole. This ship is staffed with a crew of 4 guys who are solely dedicated to feeding the 40+ people billeted here and they are very good at their job. By the time they’re serving a meal, they’re already prepping for the next one. They have pretty salty personalities too. Cruz, in particular, is a riot. “How are you, papa?” is his usual catchphrase, but lately I get “Wa’sup, Mr. Qwee-zow!” He usually yells at us to “Vamanos!” even though we’ve just sat down to eat.
“Where are you from, Cruz?” I asked.
“North Korea” he spat back. “No, I grew up in California... nah man, I’m full of shit. I’m from Honduras.”
Cruz speaks at least six languages.
The dude is in his sixties, but he gets down like a man 1/3 his age. I saw him out in town once and that was plenty. The next day he was up at lord-knows-when to prepare for breakfast (which begins at 0630), chipper as always. Hats off to you, sir.
Another one of the cooks, Raphael, is equally funny and even more talented with languages.
“Raphael, how many languages can you speak,” I asked.
“About half..” he replies.
“Half of all languages? Hahaha.”
“Hmm, yeah. If you need any help with your Tagalog, let me know.”
We were welcomed to Jamaica with a show by a band and cheerleaders from a local high school.
from the Errol Flynn Marina Bar on the first night in Port Antonio.
A raft in the world-famous Blue Lagoon (you know, from the movie with Brooke Shields).
my first round of jerk chicken. served with roast breadfruit and potent jerk sauce and ketchup. This was at the Blue Lagoon.
I knew before I arrived that I had to sample jerk chicken during my visit. I ate it nearly every night, experiencing the best and worst Port Antonio had to offer. I was rarely disappointed. The best jerk chicken was tender and heavily spiked with jerk flavorings, spicy after an overnight marinade in allspice (called "pimento" in Jamaica) and Scotch bonnet peppers (among the hottest peppers on the Scoville scale). Other typical jerk ingredients include cloves, cinnamon, scallions, nutmeg, thyme, garlic, salt, and pepper.
My best dining experience was at the Hotel MockingBird Hill, located in the hills of Drapers, east of Port Antonio. If you’re ever in the area, you should definitely eat here. The drive up the hill is spectacular, the hotel and restaurant take advantage of the view, and the food is delicious and well prepared. I had a goat cheese and roasted beet appetizer; mango gazpacho; jerk-spiced lamb over rice pilaf; and shared too desserts, chocolate trifle and bread pudding. My photos are too dark to post, but I can show you what I had to drink.
Planter’s punch: Appleton Estate rum, lemon juice, grenadine, and soda water.
I asked Natalie, our bartender, if we could sit here for dinner; she said yes. The sun was completely down by the time we were served and the candlelight was not enough to produce good lighting for my photos. (If you really want to see them, just let me know).
I also had a splendid time browsing the Musgrave Market, located off the main square in Port Antonio. I bargained for most of my souvenirs here.
Scallions are very important in Jamaican cookery.
I like my ladies like I like my scotch bonnets, beautiful and dangerous. (They’re among the spiciest chiles in the world with a heat rating of 100,000–350,000 Scoville Units).
I had two dinners at Dickie’s Best Kept Secret, which Frommer's refers to as “a Jamaican experience that just happens to include dinner.” You have to call at least a few hours in advance, because they only stock enough food for the parties that make reservations. The restaurant is a mile and a half west of Port Antonio and is located at a bend in the coastal highway at Bryan’s Bay. The faux-Victorian cottage doesn’t look like much when drive up to it, but you’ll be amazed as you walk/climb down the stairs; the restaurant is built into the cliffside. Needless to say, this restaurant is not wheelchair accessible.
During one of my free Saturdays, I traveled with a van full of people to Ocho Rios, about 2 hours east of Port Antonio. We spent the afternoon climbing Dunn’s River Falls, then headed into town to eat lunch at a local spot our driver recommended.
Goat curry, sliced cabbage and red beans & rice. It’s not much to look at, but believe me, it was flavorful and delicious. It was my favorite lunch in Jamaica.
Boston Beach is breathtaking. It is also a few miles east of Port Antonio and is supposedly the birthplace of jerk cooking.
If you ever get a chance to visit Jamaica, do yourself a favor and spend a few days in Port Antonio. You’ll be welcomed by friendly locals, great jerk chicken and pork, and the natural beauty of Jamaica (which you might not get in the more tourist oriented towns).
If the rest of this deployment is anything like Jamaica, I’ll be broke and overweight when this is all through.